Fence Panels

I've had fence panels for a couple of years, but had not gotten around to putting them up because of other house projects and yard work. A few of my friends insisted that I get that done this year and have offered to help me install them. The timing is good because my dog and one of the new neighbor dogs behind me haven't been the kindest to each other through the chain link fence. I took my friend Stephanie up on her offer to help last Saturday. We got a break from the rain long enough to install some fence panels along the back of my yard. It's rained most days for the past few weeks. I normally like rain in the springtime because it helps the plants, but there has been a LOT. The plants (and most of the people I've talked to about the rain) need the sunshine too! At least there have been a few dry breaks when I could dig holes and put up some fence posts... and I suppose a benefit of the rain is the ground was pretty soft.

I knew the back of my yard would be challenging because there is a large root coming from my neighbor's yard. Luckily there was just enough space behind the root to dig a hole for the post. However, the fence panel did not fit as-is. My handy skill saw made it easy to cut the bottom of some of the pickets on the far right fence to fit over the root.

The others required some leveling of the soil and removal of some monkey grass before I could attach them to the posts. I split some of my large hosta plants and transplanted them and some monkey grass in front of the fence. I also moved some periwinkle up there too. I want to prevent erosion as much as possible. Since I have tiered the back yard with some landscaping bricks, I contemplated getting a mulch dump from the city to fill in some of the places that need more soil. However, I still have 5 fence panels to install, so I suppose that will need to wait until next year!

Such a difference!

Here's some inspiration... Love this!

Such a cool kid.
Sassy too:
"I'm not here to give you shoutouts." 
hahahaha

Demolition

It's big project time again! I lost momentum for a while, but spring is bringing back energy and motivation. I was hoping to dig more post holes for fencing in my backyard yesterday, but "they" were calling for rain all morning (it didn't... see one of my favorite tweets to the right).

Instead of working in my yard, I decided it was time to get rid of the built-in shelves in my spare room/office. They're too deep to be convenient storage and there's a ton of unusable area above the top shelf. Eventually, I'll put in a large closet so the small closet on the left had to go too.

There's something satisfying about demolition. It creates a clean start and opportunity to make something better. Plus, if you have any pent up aggression, kicking drywall is a great outlet.

I had a lot of quality time with my hammer and pry bar. I started with the closet because once I removed the drywall next to the shelves, I knew they'd be easier to remove without entirely destroying them. I was making enough of a mess as it was. I used a hand saw to help remove the last 2 wall studs. One of the other great things about demolition is that it requires fewer tools (and, thus, fewer trips to my basement) than other house projects.

I haven't cleaned out all of the junk, but here's the newly opened space and the result of my hard work.

So many choices...

Installing Baseboards

I had a dilemma... Do I leave my furniture in the middle of the room or move it all back to reasonable locations? I have baseboards!!! They look great and it's a shame that they are so hidden. Yes, that means I decided to move my furniture back.

I used the long weekend to tackle baseboard installation on the main level of my house and they are all installed! For many, many months they had all been painted, but taking up space in my dining and living room. I installed them in my bedroom earlier in the year and forgot I hadn't blogged about it, so here it goes. My bedroom was a good starter room. The baseboards in my bedroom consisted of one baseboard per wall with inner corner cuts. Four walls. Regular corners (no odd angles). Two doorways. Not too difficult.

Then, there's my downstairs where the living room, dining room, and kitchen all connect without doors, lots of inner and outer corners, and one length of wall that would need 2 pieces of baseboard and 3 pieces of shoe moulding. Let's not forget the flooring transition between the dining room and kitchen because the flooring is not level. This is a picture of the transition (and my cat) and the baseboard with a sketch of the porton that needed to be removed in order for the baseboard to fit around the transition.

 

I don't have a jigsaw so I used a hacksaw, dremel, and my miter saw to make the cut at the bottom of the baseboard so it would fit around the transition. It wasn't perfect, but the imperfect cut would be hidden by the shoe moulding. However, the angles for the shoe moulding were also fairly impossible. My tool that measures the angles doesn't work well with small segments, so I had to recreate the angle with two pieces of paper and then could line up the tool with the paper edges to figure out the angle. For instance, the angle for one transition was around 165 so each piece needed to be at a 82.5 degree angle. I set the miter saw at 7.5 degrees and had to figure out the directions to cut each of those little pieces. Plus, one side needed to have an outer angle cut to fit around the wall (45 degree angle with the moulding positioned a different way). And the other piece needed some sort of angle to fit with the shoe moulding along the dining room floor... but the floor transition doesn't angle all the way to the floor. Of course, there's a slight lip to make it just a little more difficult. 

I didn't stress about it too much though. I did the best I could and used some spackle to make it smooth. I'm pretty pleased with the results. I did fill in the nail holes with spackle, but eventually I'll need to add some caulk and do touch-up paint.

Even though I did my baseboards on my own this weekend. I have to thank Kelli who helped me measure, cut, and install baseboards in my bedroom. She was WAY more helpful than the cat, who was particularly good at photo-bombing. The cat wanted to be in my picture of some of the tools I used for this process. That's a lot of tools. My dining room was the staging room and there were tight quarters, but I made it work.

 

Warning- the air compressor can get really HOT. I accidentally bumped it with my shoulder and have a little burn mark. Otherwise, I was careful with my power tools and was unscathed.(The yardwork I did this morning was another matter, but that's off topic).

This picture should also have included the tissue box that I used to keep the baseboards level with the miter saw while making the cuts. It served dual purposes because the saw dust also made me sneeze some. :)

Don't they look good?

Removing Baseboards

I've had a draft of this post written for a very long time. Now that I'm finally installing new baseboards, I figured I should let you know how I removed the old ones.

I'm pretty sure that the baseboards were original to the house and were pretty beat up. I was convinces they had to go... plus it helped with the floor refinishing process. I bought myself a pry bar and a good hammer and started at it. It was also good that I did this before I painted so I wouldn't mess up a new paint job. The quick and dirty description of how to remove a baseboard is: put edge of pry bar at the top of the baseboard, hammer pry bar behind baseboard, gently pry baseboard away from wall slightly (can be less than 1/2 inch), move pry bar further along the baseboard, and repeat until full baseboard is slightly away from wall, then work your way back to get it even further away from wall until you can pull whole thing out with out damaging the wall. If you try to remove the whole nail before prying the full baseboard slightly away from the wall, you risk damaging the wall behind it.

I ended up some nails left in the walls that I am having to remove now that I'm installing the new baseboards. Some of those need a little engineering ingenuity (in fact, I was told I should have been an engineer when someone saw my methods, but I'll stick with my current profession). Sometimes I've had to use a block for leverage with the hammer or pry bar (I'm pretty certain I learned that trick from Dad). I've also used interesting configurations of the hammer and pry bar to get nails out. Occasionally I've been able to use needle nose pliers to pull the nail out. If all else fails I hammer it all the way into the wall or saw it off with a small hacksaw right at the wall because it's just going to get covered by a new baseboard. I just have to be careful not to shoot a new nail into the old one. Before I install more baseboards, I'll make sure to survey old nail holes and will put a piece of painter's tape on the wall right above the nail to be careful around that spot.

SHARK BITE! The DIY, affordable way to fix copper pipes.

Apparently I'm not the only one who drills into water pipes! Thanks to a blog reader/friend, I've learned of how to fix holes in copper pipes the easy way... no soldering necessary. I'm still glad I saw what the plumber did because I would have made much more of a mess and probably would have been second-guessing myself the whole time. Here's what to do.
For humility's sake, let's put up an image of the pipe again. Yep... hole right in the middle. I did that.

If this happens to you, here is what to do...
1) Sprint to turn off the water main! (hopefully you are reading this BEFORE drilling into a pipe because if you are googling "how to fix a copper pipe" and your water main is still on, then you are going to need professional help).
2) Clean up the mess and put a towel under the pipe where the hole is.
3) Drain your system by turning on your hot and cold water faucets in the bathrooms especially in the lowest level of your house.
4) Get a pipe cutter, deburr/depth gauge tool, and shark bite push-fit coupling from your local hardware store.
5) Cut the pipe on either side of the hole no more than 2 inches long. Be patient with cutting the pipe. It may take a while.
6) This short video shows you the rest of the steps. And dude had an accent so that's extra reason to watch.

I hope this saves someone $200+ in their next plumbing emergency!